1) Wind- formation of swells and waves- waves enter shallow water the energy in the waves starts to interact with the sea floor
2) the distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave. it is an important factor because wind is the main cause for waves.
3) waves in the deeper ocean do not break but cause swells and the further a swell travels the more likely the waves are to form what is called a ground swell.
5) wave forms by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. when the waves reach shallow water the energy in the wave starts to interact with the sea floor. the wavelegnth becomes shorter and the wave height increases.
6) the difference between the three types of waves is that spilling waves break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes. plunging waves break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep and surging waves occur on very steep beaches
7) a wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast. A ground swell forms when waves have traveled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast.
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