7.4 Managing the coastal environment

1) coastal management involves ways to protect human development but ot take in careful consideration of how it will effect the environment.
2) sea walls, breakwaters, Groynes
3) Sea walls- advantages- stop erosion of the coastline and protect property
disadvantages- often replace foredune, which is an essential part of beach erosion
Breakwaters- stabilise river entrances and provide safe access for boating by keeping the river entrance clear of sand built up
Disadvantages- can act to dramatically alter patterns of erosion, transportation and deposition of sand along the coastline.
Groynes- Advantages- to catch sand and make beaches wider
Disadvantages- however sand tends to accumulate on one side only, creating a different beach from its natural shape.
4) you need to keep the balance between human development and the environment.

7.3 Geographical Processes shaping the coastal environment

1) hydraulic action, corrasion and corrosion
2) wave refraction is when energy is concentrated around headlands and more dispersed along beaches located in bays
3) converging waves due to refraction on headland, wave energy concentrated, wave energy difused,
4) the most common erosional landforms found along the coastline are in Victoria called the famous Australian the twelve Apostles
5) longshore drift, deposition and erosion
7) once the material is eroded away by the wind and waves it is transported to other places to be deposited.
8) the most common depositional landforms found along the coastline are beaches and sand dunes
9) coastal dunes are formed by the action of the wind. once sand is deposited on the beach it is then subject to wind transportation. the wind blows the sand landward, which is then trapped by low-lying vegetation like coastal spinifex.
10) waves usually approach the coast at an angle. Once the waves break they start to lose their energy. as the swash travels up the beach it slows until the force of gravity causes it to travel directly back towards the ocean. the water will then be hit by the next wave and the process begins again. sand is transported along the beach by this process

7.2 Questions Waves- water on the moves

1) Wind- formation of swells and waves- waves enter shallow water the energy in the waves starts to interact with the sea floor
2) the distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave. it is an important factor because wind is the main cause for waves.
3) waves in the deeper ocean do not break but cause swells and the further a swell travels the more likely the waves are to form what is called a ground swell.
5)  wave forms by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. when the waves reach shallow water the energy in the wave starts to interact with the sea floor. the wavelegnth becomes shorter and the wave height increases.
6) the difference between the three types of waves is that spilling waves break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes. plunging waves break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep and surging waves occur on very steep beaches
7) a wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast. A ground swell forms when waves have traveled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast.

7.5 questions

rock wall- Walls of concrete or rock, built at the base of a cliff or at the back of a beach, or used to protect a settlement against erosion or flooding.
beach nourishment- also referred to as beach replenishment--describes a process by which sediment (usually sand) lost through longshore drift or erosion is replaced from sources outside of the eroding beach.
sand bar- A long, narrow sandbank, esp. at the mouth of a river

7.4 Questions

erosion-accretion cycle- is the process of coastal sediments returning to the visible portion of a beach or foreshore following a submersion event.
groynes - A low wall or sturdy timber barrier built out into the sea from a beach to check erosion and drifting.
revegetation - Revegetation is the process of replanting and rebuilding the soil of disturbed land.
sea walls - A wall or embankment erected to prevent the sea from encroaching on or eroding an area of land.

7.3 questions

aeolian - greek word for wind
spinifex - a genus of grass which is indiginous to the coastal areas of Australia
constructive waves- small low-energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches
corrasion- occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and move rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away
corrosion- the action of salt on minerals like irons that are contained in rock, weakening the rock and making it more susceptible to erosion
refraction- the bending of waves around the headlands into bays
deposition- the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches
destructive waves- large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches
erosion- the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action
hydraulic action- Hydraulic action is a form of erosion caused by the force of moving water currents rushing into a crack in the rockface
longshore drift

7.2 questions

ground swell - A large or extensive swell in the sea.
plunging waves - A plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or sandbar.
spilling waves - Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face.
surging waves - Surging waves may never actually break as they approach the water’s edge, as the water below them is very deep. These waves are very dangerous as they can knock swimmers over and drag them back into deep water
wind swell - waves formed close to the shore by local wind conditions, unorganised, tendency to be slop
wave height- is the height of the breaking wave measuring from the peak down
wavelength- the distance between waves after eachother.
fetch- The distance traveled by wind or waves across open watersurf and swash zone- The region of breaking waves