7.5 questions

rock wall- Walls of concrete or rock, built at the base of a cliff or at the back of a beach, or used to protect a settlement against erosion or flooding.
beach nourishment- also referred to as beach replenishment--describes a process by which sediment (usually sand) lost through longshore drift or erosion is replaced from sources outside of the eroding beach.
sand bar- A long, narrow sandbank, esp. at the mouth of a river

7.4 Questions

erosion-accretion cycle- is the process of coastal sediments returning to the visible portion of a beach or foreshore following a submersion event.
groynes - A low wall or sturdy timber barrier built out into the sea from a beach to check erosion and drifting.
revegetation - Revegetation is the process of replanting and rebuilding the soil of disturbed land.
sea walls - A wall or embankment erected to prevent the sea from encroaching on or eroding an area of land.

7.3 questions

aeolian - greek word for wind
spinifex - a genus of grass which is indiginous to the coastal areas of Australia
constructive waves- small low-energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches
corrasion- occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and move rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away
corrosion- the action of salt on minerals like irons that are contained in rock, weakening the rock and making it more susceptible to erosion
refraction- the bending of waves around the headlands into bays
deposition- the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches
destructive waves- large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches
erosion- the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action
hydraulic action- Hydraulic action is a form of erosion caused by the force of moving water currents rushing into a crack in the rockface
longshore drift

7.2 questions

ground swell - A large or extensive swell in the sea.
plunging waves - A plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or sandbar.
spilling waves - Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face.
surging waves - Surging waves may never actually break as they approach the water’s edge, as the water below them is very deep. These waves are very dangerous as they can knock swimmers over and drag them back into deep water
wind swell - waves formed close to the shore by local wind conditions, unorganised, tendency to be slop
wave height- is the height of the breaking wave measuring from the peak down
wavelength- the distance between waves after eachother.
fetch- The distance traveled by wind or waves across open watersurf and swash zone- The region of breaking waves

Cortes Bank

Cortes Bank is a dangerously shallow chain of underwater mountains in the Pacific Ocean about 115 miles west of Point Loma San Diego, USA, and about 50 miles (82 kilometers) south-west of San Clemente Island.
How Weather Effects the size of the wave?
the large waves at Cortes Bank are actually created by wind, which is generated by large storms that originate thousands of miles from shore. The conditions have to be just right in order to get the correct wind equation to create big waves. There are only a handful of storms each year that have this wind/wave making potential.

Basically these storms are created by strong winds which are created by low-pressure systems. These low-pressure systems have what is called a pressure gradient, which is the pressure difference between high and low pressure. This typically happens when a low-pressure system comes into close proximity with a high-pressure system, and in between these two massive weather systems, the wind begins to blow very strong over the open ocean.

These powerful storms are packed with energy in the form of wind. This energy (or wind) that the storms generate is then transferred from the air into the ocean. Wind is what creates the energy that creates waves.

How the Topography has an effect on the size of the wave?
Big storms and swells are generated in every ocean around the world, but it is the ocean floor topography that determines whether or not a particular beach is going to produce average waves (four- to eight-foot waves) or big waves (12-foot-plus).
Cortes Bank is surrounded by jagged peaks in an underwater mountain chain and due to the adrupt rise of peaks, it is able to produce big Waves.
These natural underwater formations quickly focus approaching swells into rising, breaking waves. The part of the wave that hits the reef/rock/sea mount first will slow down, rise, and then break, while the wave out on the side is going to keep traveling, which will cause the wave to bend, angle, and then focus. This bending and angling is what causes the waves to peel, making it possible for surfers to get nice, long rides.

the science of big waves

1. they form in the wave factory in the Atlantic (north) to the west coast of america
2. surfers should know the wave height and the wave length so they know the distance between the waves which could help them surf them. the distance between the two peeks.
3. waves are formed by the wind and the energy in the water. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon oscillates the surface of the oceans twice a day while the wind agitates it into waves. The surface of the sea exerts a frictional drag on the bottom layer of a wind blowing over it, and this layer exerts a frictional drag on the layer above it, and so on. The air tumbles forward and finally develops a circular motion. This motion causes a downward pressure (DP) on the surface at its front, and an upward pressure (UP) at its rear, and this causes the surface to take on the form of a wave.
4. a maverick wave is a wave that after a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 80 feet (24.4m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.
5. As a wave moves through water, energy is transferred between the water molecules causing them to move in a circular motion. The peak of the wave is the water at the surface that moves up and forward.

Quiz 1 7.1 words

breakwaters- A barrier built out into the sea to protect a coast or harbor from the force of waves
faecal coliform-
silting - Fill or block with silt

tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides. It renews the salinity and nutrients to the estuary and removes artificially introduced toxins in the environment.
sea change- A profound or notable transformation

urban stormwater-
silting-
tidal flushing-
dredging- Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.
introduced plants-