the science of big waves

1. they form in the wave factory in the Atlantic (north) to the west coast of america
2. surfers should know the wave height and the wave length so they know the distance between the waves which could help them surf them. the distance between the two peeks.
3. waves are formed by the wind and the energy in the water. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon oscillates the surface of the oceans twice a day while the wind agitates it into waves. The surface of the sea exerts a frictional drag on the bottom layer of a wind blowing over it, and this layer exerts a frictional drag on the layer above it, and so on. The air tumbles forward and finally develops a circular motion. This motion causes a downward pressure (DP) on the surface at its front, and an upward pressure (UP) at its rear, and this causes the surface to take on the form of a wave.
4. a maverick wave is a wave that after a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 80 feet (24.4m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.
5. As a wave moves through water, energy is transferred between the water molecules causing them to move in a circular motion. The peak of the wave is the water at the surface that moves up and forward.