How Weather Effects the size of the wave?
the large waves at Cortes Bank are actually created by wind, which is generated by large storms that originate thousands of miles from shore. The conditions have to be just right in order to get the correct wind equation to create big waves. There are only a handful of storms each year that have this wind/wave making potential.
Basically these storms are created by strong winds which are created by low-pressure systems. These low-pressure systems have what is called a pressure gradient, which is the pressure difference between high and low pressure. This typically happens when a low-pressure system comes into close proximity with a high-pressure system, and in between these two massive weather systems, the wind begins to blow very strong over the open ocean.
These powerful storms are packed with energy in the form of wind. This energy (or wind) that the storms generate is then transferred from the air into the ocean. Wind is what creates the energy that creates waves.
How the Topography has an effect on the size of the wave?
Big storms and swells are generated in every ocean around the world, but it is the ocean floor topography that determines whether or not a particular beach is going to produce average waves (four- to eight-foot waves) or big waves (12-foot-plus).
Cortes Bank is surrounded by jagged peaks in an underwater mountain chain and due to the adrupt rise of peaks, it is able to produce big Waves.
These natural underwater formations quickly focus approaching swells into rising, breaking waves. The part of the wave that hits the reef/rock/sea mount first will slow down, rise, and then break, while the wave out on the side is going to keep traveling, which will cause the wave to bend, angle, and then focus. This bending and angling is what causes the waves to peel, making it possible for surfers to get nice, long rides.
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