ground swell - A large or extensive swell in the sea.
plunging waves - A plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or sandbar.
spilling waves - Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face.
surging waves - Surging waves may never actually break as they approach the water’s edge, as the water below them is very deep. These waves are very dangerous as they can knock swimmers over and drag them back into deep water
wind swell - waves formed close to the shore by local wind conditions, unorganised, tendency to be slop
wave height- is the height of the breaking wave measuring from the peak down
wavelength- the distance between waves after eachother.
fetch- The distance traveled by wind or waves across open watersurf and swash zone- The region of breaking waves
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Monday, October 24, 2011
Cortes Bank
Cortes Bank is a dangerously shallow chain of underwater mountains in the Pacific Ocean about 115 miles west of Point Loma San Diego, USA, and about 50 miles (82 kilometers) south-west of San Clemente Island.
How Weather Effects the size of the wave?
the large waves at Cortes Bank are actually created by wind, which is generated by large storms that originate thousands of miles from shore. The conditions have to be just right in order to get the correct wind equation to create big waves. There are only a handful of storms each year that have this wind/wave making potential.
Basically these storms are created by strong winds which are created by low-pressure systems. These low-pressure systems have what is called a pressure gradient, which is the pressure difference between high and low pressure. This typically happens when a low-pressure system comes into close proximity with a high-pressure system, and in between these two massive weather systems, the wind begins to blow very strong over the open ocean.
These powerful storms are packed with energy in the form of wind. This energy (or wind) that the storms generate is then transferred from the air into the ocean. Wind is what creates the energy that creates waves.
How the Topography has an effect on the size of the wave?
Big storms and swells are generated in every ocean around the world, but it is the ocean floor topography that determines whether or not a particular beach is going to produce average waves (four- to eight-foot waves) or big waves (12-foot-plus).
Cortes Bank is surrounded by jagged peaks in an underwater mountain chain and due to the adrupt rise of peaks, it is able to produce big Waves.
These natural underwater formations quickly focus approaching swells into rising, breaking waves. The part of the wave that hits the reef/rock/sea mount first will slow down, rise, and then break, while the wave out on the side is going to keep traveling, which will cause the wave to bend, angle, and then focus. This bending and angling is what causes the waves to peel, making it possible for surfers to get nice, long rides.
How Weather Effects the size of the wave?
the large waves at Cortes Bank are actually created by wind, which is generated by large storms that originate thousands of miles from shore. The conditions have to be just right in order to get the correct wind equation to create big waves. There are only a handful of storms each year that have this wind/wave making potential.
Basically these storms are created by strong winds which are created by low-pressure systems. These low-pressure systems have what is called a pressure gradient, which is the pressure difference between high and low pressure. This typically happens when a low-pressure system comes into close proximity with a high-pressure system, and in between these two massive weather systems, the wind begins to blow very strong over the open ocean.
These powerful storms are packed with energy in the form of wind. This energy (or wind) that the storms generate is then transferred from the air into the ocean. Wind is what creates the energy that creates waves.
How the Topography has an effect on the size of the wave?
Big storms and swells are generated in every ocean around the world, but it is the ocean floor topography that determines whether or not a particular beach is going to produce average waves (four- to eight-foot waves) or big waves (12-foot-plus).
Cortes Bank is surrounded by jagged peaks in an underwater mountain chain and due to the adrupt rise of peaks, it is able to produce big Waves.
These natural underwater formations quickly focus approaching swells into rising, breaking waves. The part of the wave that hits the reef/rock/sea mount first will slow down, rise, and then break, while the wave out on the side is going to keep traveling, which will cause the wave to bend, angle, and then focus. This bending and angling is what causes the waves to peel, making it possible for surfers to get nice, long rides.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
the science of big waves
1. they form in the wave factory in the Atlantic (north) to the west coast of america
2. surfers should know the wave height and the wave length so they know the distance between the waves which could help them surf them. the distance between the two peeks.
3. waves are formed by the wind and the energy in the water. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon oscillates the surface of the oceans twice a day while the wind agitates it into waves. The surface of the sea exerts a frictional drag on the bottom layer of a wind blowing over it, and this layer exerts a frictional drag on the layer above it, and so on. The air tumbles forward and finally develops a circular motion. This motion causes a downward pressure (DP) on the surface at its front, and an upward pressure (UP) at its rear, and this causes the surface to take on the form of a wave.
4. a maverick wave is a wave that after a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 80 feet (24.4m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.
5. As a wave moves through water, energy is transferred between the water molecules causing them to move in a circular motion. The peak of the wave is the water at the surface that moves up and forward.
2. surfers should know the wave height and the wave length so they know the distance between the waves which could help them surf them. the distance between the two peeks.
3. waves are formed by the wind and the energy in the water. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon oscillates the surface of the oceans twice a day while the wind agitates it into waves. The surface of the sea exerts a frictional drag on the bottom layer of a wind blowing over it, and this layer exerts a frictional drag on the layer above it, and so on. The air tumbles forward and finally develops a circular motion. This motion causes a downward pressure (DP) on the surface at its front, and an upward pressure (UP) at its rear, and this causes the surface to take on the form of a wave.
4. a maverick wave is a wave that after a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 80 feet (24.4m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.
5. As a wave moves through water, energy is transferred between the water molecules causing them to move in a circular motion. The peak of the wave is the water at the surface that moves up and forward.
Quiz 1 7.1 words
breakwaters- A barrier built out into the sea to protect a coast or harbor from the force of waves
faecal coliform-
silting - Fill or block with silt
tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides. It renews the salinity and nutrients to the estuary and removes artificially introduced toxins in the environment.
sea change- A profound or notable transformationurban stormwater-
silting-
tidal flushing-
dredging- Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.
introduced plants-
faecal coliform-
silting - Fill or block with silt
tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides. It renews the salinity and nutrients to the estuary and removes artificially introduced toxins in the environment.
sea change- A profound or notable transformationurban stormwater-
silting-
tidal flushing-
dredging- Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.
introduced plants-
Thursday, September 8, 2011
4.1
1. When people from rural areas move away from the country and into urban areas in order to find work
2. Gulargambone is situated 115km north of Dubbo and 500km north west of Sydney.
4. The soldier settler blocks where given to soldiers who had come back from the war and were given land in the country
5. The main economic activities in Gulargambone are the farming industry. This involves cattle, sheep and other animals
6. 447 people live in the town. 1072 people live in the surrounding area
7. The CDP is the community development employment and it provides activities for unemployed indigenous people around the community.
2. Gulargambone is situated 115km north of Dubbo and 500km north west of Sydney.
4. The soldier settler blocks where given to soldiers who had come back from the war and were given land in the country
5. The main economic activities in Gulargambone are the farming industry. This involves cattle, sheep and other animals
6. 447 people live in the town. 1072 people live in the surrounding area
7. The CDP is the community development employment and it provides activities for unemployed indigenous people around the community.
Gulargambone- an Australian community facing change
4.2
1) Drought causes hardship for the agricultural population, which has an effect on businesses, jobs and the local economy of the town.
2) this resulted in farm areas increasing but the number of farms decreasing.
3) Mechanism and technology, better transport and roads, and lifestyle expectations.
4) many jobs that were once manual are now mechanised.
5) it has allowed people of the community to access larger centres and they begin to bypass the smaller cntres of gulargambone
6) Population decline, an ageing population, and a loss of services for the people who remain in the community.
8) it had declined dramatically in 1961 and has staid at that population for a while.
9) the ages of people living there is older than usual.
10) the trend in school enrolments has declined as well and is still falling.
11) all this information shows that the population of Gulargambone has been effected in size and that not many new people are coming to live there.
1) Drought causes hardship for the agricultural population, which has an effect on businesses, jobs and the local economy of the town.
2) this resulted in farm areas increasing but the number of farms decreasing.
3) Mechanism and technology, better transport and roads, and lifestyle expectations.
4) many jobs that were once manual are now mechanised.
5) it has allowed people of the community to access larger centres and they begin to bypass the smaller cntres of gulargambone
6) Population decline, an ageing population, and a loss of services for the people who remain in the community.
8) it had declined dramatically in 1961 and has staid at that population for a while.
9) the ages of people living there is older than usual.
10) the trend in school enrolments has declined as well and is still falling.
11) all this information shows that the population of Gulargambone has been effected in size and that not many new people are coming to live there.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Go back to where you cam from reflection
1) My initial reaction to the show was that they were just going to be introduced to people who had been refugees. also that the people who were on the show were all racist.
2) 70%
3) because they are a different culture and we dont understand what they are escaping from
4) 18th
5) we could use some money to help people seek life in Australia. we could make foundations that could support refugees
6) very little to nearly nothing
7) 11
8) it means that they are illegally living there and that if they get caught they could exiled or sent to prison
2) 70%
3) because they are a different culture and we dont understand what they are escaping from
4) 18th
5) we could use some money to help people seek life in Australia. we could make foundations that could support refugees
6) very little to nearly nothing
7) 11
8) it means that they are illegally living there and that if they get caught they could exiled or sent to prison
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